423 km or 265 miles
the weather threw everything at us, hailstone, rain, wind (lots of wind), and sunshine
Ginette enjoyed 98% of the route
Gary enjoyed far less due to very sore feet and blisters.
On 4 May 2019
We have decided to walk the Pennine Way ( it’s 423k from Edale to the Scottish border) as we have time to play with whilst we are in the UK.
We travelled up to Sheffield by Megabus, had one night in an apartment and then took the train to Edale, the start of the walk.
Unfortunately, we didn’t take into account that it was a British bank holiday. The train was heaving with all sorts, there were groups dressed for hiking and tourists. When we got off the train it was easy to find the route as we simply had to follow the crowd.
We were not happy, and the weather was not too good either, I had visions of having to walk the first three days in a conveyer belt of people.
The first part of the route was busy, especially at Jacobs ladder (no we was not in Cheddar gorge). But once this attraction was passed then the footfall became less.
The views, as usual, were stunning. We have swapped the warmer climes for England’s greenest surrounds.
We had a few ups then a long flat high stretch of bog, fortunately, the path has been laid with stone blocks, this section must have been much harder in Wainright’s day.
Ginette has not been a happy bunny, she was up for this walk, so the walk itself is not the issue, it’s the British weather she is not happy with. We have had a cold and very windy day with spells of hailstones. On the bright side at least the hailstones don’t soak you like rain would. She has been cold every time we stop, hence she is slaving me away with fewer breaks. She walks faster than me and often has to wait for me to catch up.
The people up north talk funny, not proper like what I do. Our apartment apparently had a baff, but I could only see a bath. Fortunately, Ginette is from these parts and is fluent so has been translating for me.
We arrived at a campsite at 7pm, they have upped their prices just for this weekend, but on the upside Ginette managed to persuade the campsite owner to sell he4 a bottle of his wife’s wine for a fiver.
On 5 May 2019,
Day 2 of the Pennine Way.
A much easier walk than yesterday but still hilly.
We have had several “I am at the top of the world” occasions.
We have walked over several moors, some blackened by last years fires.
We stopped for a beer just at the end of the day, in a pub where a Swiss couple had stopped to charge their devices they are also walking this route. Amazingly they’d been on the road for three years already and travel by cycle and walking. The guy had completed the Pennine Way route in January as part of a race called the Spine race. The route has to be completed as fast as possible, competitors are not allowed to sleep in a bed or take an6 transport. It sounded brutal, lots o& sleeping in fields, toilets and church floors.
Ginette is still not a happy bunny, her mood seemed to lift today but this evening we had a tiff, she is not happy with wild camping she is struggling to get warm in the tent and as a result is not sleeping well.
On 6 May 2019
We had a great view this morning from our wild camping site.
After porridge and coffee, we broke camp and set off around the reservoirs.
Ginette and I are having a few issues, as I am sure many others do. We will work through these, they are just a little bit more tricky when we are both tired and weary and living in each overs space. Just a little later a few kissing gates gave us a lovely opportunity to kiss and make up, the good news is there were several kissing gates.
Would you believe it, Ginette doesn’t like wild camping, at least not in the cold.
Today we tried to meet up with Steve Kidd, a gentleman we met on La Graciosa in Lanzerote. In the end, our paths didn’t cross which was such a shame. Steve kindly agreed to meet us but our rubbish attempts at predicting where we may be meant he was far further north than us, he had even bought us some provisions, which we found the next day all over the floor where a fox or badger had attacked the bag.
We met a man from Belgium who is walking lands end to John o groats, now that’s hard core, however, he didn’t look that fit, he was walking with a limp and looked like he had, had a stroke.
Day 3 walk was a variety of moors, reservoirs and rolling farm lands d the beginning of Brontë Land.
We did get lost a few times, the sign posts have been vandalised in lots of areas and the way is not always clear. I have the route on my Garmin but sometimes the autopilot may change the route slightly, this is not usaully a problem but today we were worried in case we missed Steve walking the other way.
Fortunately, on route we found a little shop called Mays it was amazing, it stocked everything we could possibly need including hot pies.
We camped in Pondon. It was not far from the Pennine Way. The owners are lovely, the cafe was closed when we arrived but they had seen us coming and met us at the door, offered free hot coffee very hospitable. We camped by their lake, a little wet but a pretty setting.
We also had a pub nearby so were able to have a couple of beers, while enjoying being in doors next to a warm fire.
Gary has had to pop a lovely big blister, the beauty’s of walking in new boots.
On 7 May 2019
I would have slept well last night if it was not for the little puppy that kept shoving it’s wet nose in my groin for attention. Let me explain, Ginette gets really cold at night in the tent, which makes no sense when you know how hot she gets in a normal bed. But she has cold spots which are her knees and her bum, hence in the night, I find Net shoving her knees or bum into me so she can share my body heat. If I move she follows me. It is just like when a little puppy is nuzzling you for a cuddle.
My foot is really sore from the blister on my sole, I have even taken pain killers.
I think I must be overcompensating as later today my knee on the same side also started playing up. I feel every bit of 80 years old.
Due to this we took an extended pub break, rested and even dried out our very wet tent and ground sheet. Once we set off again I felt much better, even breaking out into song this afternoon (could have been the beer).
The walk is getting easier as the terrain becomes more rolling. We have still past over moors but the arable land is much more commonplace. We are passing hundreds of lambs so cute but so far haven’t managed to catch one for dinner.
We dropped into Cowley, we actually found the food that Steve Kidd had left for us but some wildlife had got to it first so it was all over the floor, we picked up the plastic and kicked the food so the nearby geese could enjoy it. There was a campsite sign just down the road. We walked to it hoping they had a shop.
The owners of this small site were great, they initially gave us directions to a shop 8 minutes away(in the wrong direction) but when they realised we were only after bread they sat us down in the garden, gave us some bread rolls and then let us have free use of a cabin/shed so we could make ourselves a cup of coffee as well.
Such a nice couple, they didn’t want to take any money but took a donation for a local charity.
By day 4 we were in a much better place mentally, Ginette still hates camping but needs must. I think the easier walking has helped and now we are both starting to hurt we have other things on our mind. Net is still keeping an eye on the weather forecast. She has booked us a room for tomorrow night as it is promising to soak us all day.
On 9 May 2019,
A wet start today, it had rained in the night, we did manage breakfast in the dry but had to pack the tent away wet.
My feet are pretty sore, mainly my left foot. The pain eases as I walk but increases again every time i stop.
We had a short walk today of about 10 miles and finished the day early in Malham. Ginette has booked us a room and it’s a very nice barn converversion.
The walk was pretty easy over farmland with lots os lambs and calves around.
We met a man coming the other way who is walking John O Groats to lands end, he was very chatty so we spent a pleasant little time with him.
We stopped for dinner in a farm shop/cafe in Airton, I stuffed myself with cheese and beans jacket potato, Ginette ha£ homemade soup with potatoe wedges. The locals up North are really friendly and open conversations with you readily. It took us a while to leave the cafe as several people were interested in our travels.
The room we stayed in was great, it felt like a real luxury to have a kettle, how much easier it is to boil water when it can be done with the flick of a switch.
We had the pleasure of a call from Shaun and Kes from Borneo. They are wondering where they should go next on there honeymoon and were asking some advice. We told them to go back to bed (joking).
Ginette is feeling much better, she is a really strong walker and is bouncing ahead of me, often waiting for me to catch up.
The blister I had treated yesterday had swollen up again, no wonder it hurt so much today. I have treated it again hopefully properly this time.
On 9 May 2019
Net slept well but I struggled to sleep, I seem to have an issue transferring from canvas to warm cosy rooms.
The walk would have been far more enjoyable if the weather was not so inclement, we had high winds and some rain. We spent the day with extra layers, hats and hoods up so walking with the tunnel vision the hood gives and also the sounds are restricted, especially fo me as I had my hearing aids in and all I hear is the rustle of the water proof hood.
Now weather aside we had some spectacular moments, if any one wanted a recommendation for a walk this would be at the top of the list.
We left Malham and straight away was treated by a huge rock face called Malham Bech, apparently once a waterfall in the ice age, our walk took us to the top of this feature with great views.
We then had several gorges of rocks up to a large lake called Malham Tarn.
The next treat was a steep climb over rocks which involved using hands and feet to scramble up to the summit of Pen Y Ghent, very windy, wet but great views.
We met an American walking the route on his own, we also bumped into a couple of Dutch guys we had met a few days before.
As the weather was poor we booked into a bunkhouse behind the Golden Lion pub. The bunkhouse can fit 15 but fortunately, only 4 of us were booked in for the evening. Ginette usually hates the idea of bunkhouses but this was her idea as she didn’t want to camp and what’s more, she is actually pleased with the bunkhouse room.
Dinner in the pub tonight, living the dream
We had a good night, it was a very social affair as most of the pub was full of walkers including the American and the Dutch guys.
Net has now booked us into a YHA for tomorrow and the Tan inn For the next couple of nights. We know we will be meeting most of these guys again especially at the Tan Inn.
Today I have finished feeling very weary, Ginette is feeling strong, but as I am writing this she has rosy red cheeks from the roaring fire, drink and food. Life doesn’t get much better.
On 10 May 2019
Last night was very enjoyable with an evening in the pub with several other walkers, then we had the bunk house to ourselves. Not sure what happened to the other 2 who had been booked into the room but it meant we had an uninterrupted nights sleep.
We finished walking by 3 pm a short day with gentle climbing so in effect a bit of a rest day.
Although we had no major hills to walk the countryside was very scenic. We passed in the distance a stone arched railroad viaduct which apparently cost the lives of approx 100 men to build.
We walked next to Ling Gill, a nature reserve with a series of small waterfalls in a gorge.
We stayed in a YHA in an en-suite room, sharing the place with one elderly English woman and a group of German schoolchildren. We reached the hostel before we could check in but all the doors were open and we had access to the toilets and kitchen. It was surprisingly very expensive at £69 a night!
As we finished early we took a trip into town, Hawes. We had a spar which meant we could stock up and we could buy fresh vegetables and fish cakes for dinner (and we had the kitchen to ourselves as the Germans had the staff cooking for them).
The beer in the pub was a lovely couple of pints of old peculiar on our way back to the hostel we took a look around the town and found an old fashioned sweet shop, a real trip down memory lane. We truly were like a couple of kids, we bought hard licourice sticks, army and navy and Yorkshire mix boiled sweets.
We slept at the Tan Inn bunkhouse last night, not the greatest experience.
The pub itself looks welcoming but the staff all looked like they wanted to be somewhere else, service with a smile had long since past.
We shared our bunk room with 4 young cyclists who were actually in bed before us. As we had all settled down another guest was shown to our room at about 11pm. He had to find his was around in the pitch black and used his phone light to pick one of the remaining top bunks, he was very unsteady on his feet and he was lucky to have made it up the ladder.
Sometime in the night this same gentleman needed to rid himself of all the fluid he had partaken in the bar earlier, he finally managed to reach the floor from his bunk having woken most the room, when he came back again he had the pitch black room to contend with, but this time no phone after attempting to get into bed with one of the cyclists I got up and guided him to his own bunk.
Breakfast was a slow affair, served by the same unhappy staff.
It was a sunny day yeah.
The walk from Tan inn led us straight over a moor which was very boggy, so many people had tried to find a dryer route that it was hard to find the right path. This terrain suited me fine, my feet were sore and the ground was soft and squidgy, I even managed to keep up with Ginette as she was trying to dodge and weave to find the dry route where I just ploughed on (using my poles to check the water depths, some would have been victor of dinky moments).
We reached Clove barn, this had recently been converted to a modern bunkhouse, they have put out signs welcoming anyone to use the facilities and a small group of day walkers were sitting outside doing just that.
We had a coffee and cake for a fee of our choice, the owner then came for a chat and showed us around his main business in the main building where his luxury B and B has a new jacuzzi and a sauna, if the weather hadn’t been so nice we would have been tempted to stay.
Later in the day we passed through a farm with a tuck shop, this was a small kennel type box with an honesty box. We only had 4K to go but the chocolate and fifty drinks looked too tempting. A lady on the farm invited us to sit and rest in their picnic chairs.
We struggled to find and change for the treats we so dearly wanted, after a chat they accepted some Euros. We were also made a cup of tea, the farmer came and sat with us having made himself a tea as well and we spent an enjoyable session chatting with this amiable man and his wife.
It turns out the tuck shop is his 13-year-old daughters’ project. It has been going for three years and is well used by some of the regular eventers. One marathon runner has even requested the type of snacks the other runners would want and the dates they need to be stocked.
We are camped in Middleton on Tees in a caravan site just out of town. After we had cooked we walked the 10 minutes into town to say our goodbyes to the two Dutch guys who go home tomorrow, we had a good evening, meeting another couple of older gentlemen that are doing the full walk, one from Huddersfield the other from Ginette’s home town of Halifax. We hope we meet these two again as they have a cracking sense of fun.
Having left them we stocked up at the co op, then as I was hungry bought a takeaway pizza, what a treat. However, as soon as I opened the lid I lost all but three slices all over the floor. Oh the disappointment, in the end, I sulkily quenched my hunger with some un appetising bread and jam.
In summary, today’s walk was great, brilliant views, easy walking and sunshine. We met some lovely people on the way and in the evening, it’s just a shame my pizza treat was enjoyed by the local wildlife instead of us.
On 13 May 2019
We had a very pleasant start to the day with a walk alongside the River Tees, we have actually paddled the lower stretches in Stockton but the river along this stretch would be too fast flowing shallow and rocky to paddle.
We passed several waterfalls, high fell and low fell then the route ventured further from civilisation but still following the River.
We got lost at one point and added a mile to our day, which was very frustrating.
We came to a massive waterfall and had to scramble up the rock face which was not easy with backpacks on and in hindsight very dangerous.
In the afternoon we had a long trudge across a moor with military firing ringing out next to us, this walk seemed to go on forever but once at the top we were treated to a spectacular view of high cup, this is a huge valley created in the ice age that is like a giant skateboard bowl hundreds of feet tall.
By this stage, we were both very tired but wanted to push on to the camp site and village of Dufton which was only 4 k away. The last stage of the day is always the hardest and this day was no different.
We didn’t get in till 7.30 pm so a pretty hard and long day.
We camped alongside the Australian lads that we met today and a Swiss couple we met a few days ago.
A good nights sleep, well it’s easy when you’re knackered.
The morning included a lot of hill climbing which We really enjoyed, the sun was out all day and we had a clear view across Cumbria. We walked over the highest point of the Pennines passed an observerstory. We met a couple an uncle and nephew team from Essex they were resting at the top we stopped for a quick chat and realised we would probably see them later in the evening.
The afternoon was not so good, we still had good views but we had 10k of long gravel road to walk along which was a bit of a chore. The only thing keeping us going was the thought of a cold pint In the local pub.
We reached Garrigill at about 4 pm which was good however the pub was closed for refurbishment and the only shop was shut. Much to our surprise whilst sitting chatting to the Pennine Walkers from Essex we were offered a cup of coffee from a guy at the nearby B and B for free.
We pitched our tents outside the village hall, they had an honesty box, £7 a night with access to showers, a kitchen and a bunkhouse.
The Swiss couple we have met several times on route also camped here along with the two Essex guys. We have had a great evening sitting and chatting with them all night.
The generous B and B man came around to see us, as there was nowhere to eat he offered to take us to the next town to the fish and chip shop. This meant we had a great meal along with sweets, beer and wine. All curtesy of another’s kindness.
Ginette and I set the tent up but opted to sleep in the bunkhouse in the warm.
On 16 May 2019
We had a good nights sleep in the bunkhouse at Garrigill and breakfast was the standard porridge and coffee but from the luxury of a kettle and proper plates.
We walked 4miles to the next town of Alston. We restocked with food, purchased new poles for Gary to replace his damaged ones and even treated ourselves to a hot egg burger from a cafe. This was all lovely and relaxing but we didn’t leave the town till after 10 am which really hurt us later as we didn’t finish the day till 7.30.
It was an undulating walk across the farmed countryside and also over moors some of which were very boggy. The sun was out and it was an enjoyable day.
We wanted to get into Greenhead, it had a campsite and a pub so we pushed on, so much so we were both knackered as the day was so long.
We considered wild camping earlier in the day on top of the moor and late regretted our decision to push on.
Just outside Greenhead Ginette’s head had told her it was time to stop, normally this was me so it was unusual for Net to be like this. We actually started to put the tent up then realised we had drunk most of our water (it was a hot day) so we packed it away again and pushed on to the town.
We opted to stay in the local youth hostel and had it pretty much to ourselves but I think someone else arrived in the night.
The beer and conversation in the pub was nice we sat with the two men from Yorkshire that we have met several times on route and the Australians. Unfortunately, 2 of their group had pulled out of the walk due to injuries. One of those that had dropped out had organised the trip he’d been inspired by the Santiago Camino Pilgrimage but after researching the route realised that there would be lots of road walking and that due to the American film the route had become very popular with westerners. After researching other walks he had opted to do the Pennine Way. He was walking with his father, who was very gaunt, his friend (we pulled out within days of starting the route) and his friend. It was a shame that Tobias didn’t complete the route but we saw him at the finish and he was happy with his decision, he’d hired a car and toured the local area.
The lounge and kitchen on the YHA made it seem worth the effort of pushing on for so long, but we planned to have a shorter day the next day.
On 16 May 2019
A good nights sleep (although the pain in our feet woke us a few times) rattling around in the huge YHA all on our own, we thought we had someone else but if they were around, we never met them.
Breakfast was left over rice from the night before with onion and tomato plus 4 poached eggs (we bought the raw eggs from the pub’s restaurant the night before).
My feet were aching all night especially one of my blisters, I had to peel off the compede plaster to investigate and the smell under the plaster was rancid. I have decided not to cover again with a standard plaster and have treated it with antiseptic then covered with gauze and tape so that I can air it easier in the evening.
In the night I thought that maybe we would have to have an enforced rest day or even abandon the walk but by morning my foot had dried out and was looking a lot better.
We opted to do a short day of 8 miles to a YHA in Once brewed.
We spent an enjoyable morning walking along Hadrian’s Wall. We had walked this stretch before but it was a while ago and at a much quicker pace. We walked all of Hadrians Wall in 3 and a half days for charity with good friends from the Ring O Bells pub.
The walk along the wall was pretty hilly and we were glad of the shorter day, or at least I was. Ginette has been in a black mood this morning as a short day doesn’t fit in with her competitive nature. She also thought we were off route and didn’t enjoy the slower pace. It later transpired that she had also been concerned because she hadn’t bough5 anything for m6 birthday the following day. We have decided no5 to buy gifts whilst we are travelling bu5 it does go against the grain because she enjoys making my birthday a special day.
The YHA was fully booked by a school group. We stopped at the pub for a couple of pints (they did a great Porter) and walked the short distance back up the road to Windshields farm camp site near Twice brewed (on the map it’s called once brewed).
The owner was great, he gave us the bunkhouse to sleep in which had been newly renovated. We had a kitchen stocked with teas, coffee and bread. He has sold us some wine and chocolate plus gave us a couple of cans of local beer for free.
Ginette – I think he took pity on Gary, he looked really tired, walking with blisters and foot pain is really taking it out of him.
Gary – I actually had a sleep in the afternoon which is rare for me. We spent the late afternoon chilling in the sunshine, making the most of the toast, tea and relaxing
Yesterday I was so sore and tired I thought that maybe this was the end of the walk for me, I was so pleased to wake up feeling a lot better. My feet were still very sore but pain killers for breakfast helped slightly.
I don’t give up easy so decided to carry on to the next town and reassess there. This is supposed to be fun and although I would normally enjoy walking and pushing myself it’s hard when every step reminds you that you are bruised and blistered.
When you talk to the other walkers they are also feeling the pain so I am not on my own. Although we don’t have to do this walk in one go as we have time on our hands, in my head I know that I need to do this with no breaks to feel I have completed it.
We started the day with about 2 hours walking along Hadrian’s wall, we are lucky as the Pennine Way takes in the best bits of the Hadrians wall walk, this, however, means we had quite a few steep ups and downs to do but with good views either side.
We played spot the British today, we had read that only 4% of foreigners complete the Pennine Way but in our experience, it is much more than this. I would guess that during the Hadrians wall section over 70% were from other countries such as Canada and the USA.
Once we left Hadrian’s wall the foot traffic became much lighter, in fact, we only met one other walker all day, an 82-year-old man out on his own for a 5-mile walk, respect.
The rest of the day was walking over the slightly undulating ground of boggy moors and fir tree forests.
We stopped at a farm with a “pit stop”. This used to be run in the ’80s by the owner’s mother who used to great the walkers and makes them tea. To keep the legacy going they have set up one of their barns so that any walker can shelter, boil the kettle and make tea or coffe and help themselves to the free mIlk from the fridge. They even had snacks such as waggon wheels. You are asked to make a donation but they also invite you to help yourself if you have no cash. These little stops are really good, not only do you get the nourishments you need but the generosity of people really lifts your spirits.
There was a visitors book which made interesting reading. The day before a couple had signed the book at 7pm stating where their day was to end which meant they still had another 2 hours walking to do that night, yuk.
I had planned to stop early at a bunkhouse ( much to Ginettes dismay, she had a target for the day and she is a driven woman) but as the day was sunny and clear and the pain in my feet was being managed with painkillers we continued to finish at the town of Bellingham, getting in at 6pm.
We stayed in the bunkhouse, a rip of at £22 each but comfortable, warm and kitted out with a nice kitchen. The bonus was we ended up with the place to ourselves.
As it was my birthday we had a meal out in a local pub, then a big bowl of Ben and Jerry’s back at the bunkhouse.
It was good to end the day knowing we only had 45 miles and that we would finish the walk even if Ginette had to drag me over the finish line. There was no way I was giving up now.
On 18 May 2019,
We made good use of the bunkhouse kitchen and had eggs on toasted muffins for breakfast.
We stocked up for a couple of nights wild camping at the local CoOp then set off.
We set our dIl6 target at 16 miles, we wanted to reach Forest view at Byrne’s village as we had seen in a write up on the internet that they allowed camping provided you ate there.
The walk was not too strenuous, we had heather moors to cross, some farm land and some large pine forests.
At one stage we were walking along a yellow stone track, so the songs started to come all from the wizard of Oz. We also discovered this area had a brilliant echo so if I sang the songs louder then the echo sang them back to me. This amused me for a while we felt like we had backing singers accompanying us.
In the afternoon tHe weather turned on us giving us a bit of a soaking, the good news is that my feet although still sore, felt better than they had done for days.
We passed a campsite at the 14-mile mark and although wet and cold we pushed on as we wanted to find the pub, this was another 2 miles further down the track. We average 2 miles an hour which mean5 at least another hour in the rain. We couldn’t get any wetter and we were in good spirits so trudged on. We arrived at Forest View only to be told he was full, and his wife was not well so he was having to do all the jobs, he did offer us a room at £60 each including dinner and breakfast but this was out of our budget, when we told him we will move on and wild camp he decided to let us camp on his back garden, £22 each including dinner and breakfast. The Inn was not what we expected at all it was more like a licensed bed and breakfast.
The two Yorkshire gents we had seen a few times along the route were also staying at the Inn. It turned out they’d stayed the previous night and had taken the hotel deal where if you stayed two nights you were provided free transport to and from the half way point of the last stage. William and Andrew had planned their walk very carefully, booking accommodation in advance, arranging for their luggage to be transported and arranging for their wives to meet them at the end of the walk. On previous occasions when we had met them they’d been a good company but unfortunately, they had had words as on the Hadrian Wall section of the route they’d got lost and had to take a bus and a taxi to their destination. This meant in theory they did not complete the full walk. This bothered William far more than Andrew and it meant a fractious night still enjoyable as there were others staying bu5 a little uncomfortable.
We only had 28 miles left and planned to do this in two days which will mean wild camping as there is nowhere else to stop.
On 19 May
We learnt last night that the Inn is up for sale and it was clear that both the husband and wife have had enough.
They were both very particular about how things needed to be done, especially with the way the wet kit is laid out in the drying room, they had good systems going but it was clear they were irritated easily.
The good thing was the food was great, baggies and neaps for me, mushroom risotto for Nettie and we got to meet more walkers. The two people on our table were friends walking the Pennine Way the opposite way to us. One of the men had completed the walk before, but his friend had done very little long distance walking.
I managed to set off with no pain killers and no plasters which was the first time in a while, however after an hour I had to start popping the pills again.
The walk was initially up a steep climb which also involved some bouldering, but once at the top, we then had an undulating plateau over the Cheviot hills to enjoy.
Ginette spotted a group of walkers behind us, we have been looking out for our other weary walkers but it turned out to be a squad of armed foot soldiers on patrol. We walked on the edge of Oterburn army training area and firing range, as well as spotting this squad we could hear artillery in the distance.
We stopped just short of a hill called Windy Gayle and camped with some great views, we ate well and treated ourselves to a hot toddy made with rum. Which we supped knowing we only had 13 miles left so about 7 hours walking, then we are done. It was lovely to be on our own and to share our thoughts about the walk. Nettie has enjoyed it far more than me. We have had a bit of a role reversal which has been interesting and hopefully will make both of us more tolerant on the next stage of our adventure.
On 20th May 2019
We both slept fairly well but woke early and had packed up and set off-by 7 am.
We only have 14 miles to finish the Pennine Way.
My feet felt much better, the pain was bearable with the aid of painkillers which made the walk more enjoyable.
This last stretch over the Cheviots we found this stretch very scenic, we had some steep climbs to go up and down, a bit like Cornwall’s short sharp hills. We also had views over the Scottish plains to one side of us, it was a refreshing change to see flatlands with the different colours of crops such as rapeseed.
Towards the last few miles, we caught up with the Australians and walked with them into Kirk Yetholm.
We finished walking down the gentle slopes into Kirk Yetholm, no fanfare or welcoming party but a nice meal and beers in the local pub of this little Scottish town.
The Aussies were kind enough to give us a lift to the train station at Berwick upon Tweed as the buses from Kirk are few and far between.
We copped for a huge bill to get the train to Manchester, we had made the mistake of booking an apartment in the city without fully researching the costs, we could have bought train tickets for half the price the following day, shit happens.